The rules are such that you choose six tops or bottoms.  You can have multiples for laundering sake, but they have to be the same color and style… ie: five white t-shirts, not five t-shirts with all different colors.

While I’m not about to give up my favorite frocks in favor of this plan, it does have its uses in individual wardrobe sections.  We all have clothes we wear on the weekends, garments for going out to dinner or drinks, and other sets of clothes for the office.  And something that is really important these days is what we wear to the office.   If your budget is short, stick to some basics to get you through your work weeks without anyone noticing that you’re wearing the same pieces.

I’d recommend:

• a three or four piece suit (jacket, vest, skirt, slacks) in a neutral: navy, black, beige, or gray.
• 2 dress shirt in a basic color: light “French” blue, cream, pastel pink, or white
• a cashmere sweater that coordinates with your neutrals and your dress shirts
• a sheath dress in a coordinating neutral
• a shell in a basic color

What you can do with that:

1. Jacket, Skirt, Shell
2. Jacket, Skirt, Dress shirt 1
3. Vest, Dress shirt 2, Skirt
4. Sheath dress, Dress shirt 1
5. Sheath Dress, Sweater
6. Slacks, Dress Shirt 2, Sweater
7. Slacks, Dress shirt 1, Vest
8. Slacks, Sweater, Vest.
9. Jacket, Sweater, Slacks
10. Jacket, Shell, Slacks
11. Jacket, Sheath Dress
12. Sheath Dress + Belt
13. Dress shirt, Skirt, Belt
14. Dress shirt, Sweater, Skirt, Belt
15. Jacket, Vest, Dress shirt 1, Slacks
16. Jacket, Vest, Dress shirt 2, Slacks

Etc, etc, etc. That’s at least three weeks of outfits, not to mention how changing your shoes and jewelry can change the look of the outfit.

This allows you to buy higher quality items in fewer quantities, which is something that people used to do prior to the 80s.

Low Maintainance

The best foundation products for you would put 2 steps (or more) into one fast and easy result.  A tinted moisturizer would be your best option and a concealer for dark circles and blemishes.  The tinted moisturizer is easy to select as options generally are light-medium-dark or similar.

Medium Maintainance

While you might not mind multiple steps, you favor things that don’t take forever but are also aren’t necessarily the fastest techniques.  Most foundations will work for you– so choose what makes you comfortable and works for your skin type.  Don’t overlook concealer!

High Maintainance

You don’t really mind how long things take provided you get a flawless look.  For you, primer, foundation, and concealer are a must.

Techniques

There is no right/wrong way to apply makeup, however… there are some better ways.  If whatever product you use is a cream formula that comes out of jar or pot, you can extend the longevity of health of the product by keeping your fingers out of the jar and using a spatula (for a creamy mouse foundation) or a makeup application tool.

For my high maintainance gals, primer is key.  Most come in a gel-like form and can be spread easily with fingers.  You’ll have choices between a plain primer or a tinted primer that will counteract things like redness.

Foundation can be applied in many ways, depending on the level of coverage desired and the type of cosmetic used. For full coverage, you can use a cosmetic sponge.  For medium coverage, try a foundation brush.  For light, build-able coverage try a stippling brush (flat top, usually used for bronzers).  If you are using a mineral foundation, use the brush set that comes with or a kabuki brush for more coverage.  If you use a brush, wash nightly with a mild soap and air dry over night– this prevents build-up.  Or, try Brush-off, a commercial brush cleanser you can get at most beauty supply stores.

Concealer should be dabbed on either with fingers or with concealer brush.  If using the fingers, use the ring finger to DAB (not pull) the concealer onto the eye area.  It is important to conceal the inner corner of the eye, right on the bridge of the nose as this is the most recessed area on the face and most prone to dark shadows that will add the look of sleep deprivation.  Concealing here is the fastest, easiest way to look well rested.

All foundations and concealers need to be set.  A setting powder can be loose, pressed or even translucent.  My favorite is the mineral veil from Bare Minerals.

Steps

1. Moisturize (low-medium-high)
2. Apply primer (high)
3. Apply foundation (medium-high)
4. Conceal (low-medium-high)
5. Set (low-medium-high)

Choosing the right shade

When searching for the right foundation shade, make sure to test it on your JAWLINE.  Your wrist is not close to the same color as your jawline, and your face is where you wear makeup.  Your foundation should blend (more or less) into your jawline.  You should never, ever have a line that stops along your jaw where you haven’t blended or where the foundation doesn’t match.

If you aren’t sure what color foundation to use, try talking to a cosmetic pro– head over to Sephora and get a foundation match or check out Prescriptives for their color Rx.  Then check it out in daylight. Store lighting (even from the p.o.v. of a counter clerk) is abominable at best.  Make sure the color doesn’t look peachy or orange or too chalky against your skin.

Make your purchase and then wear the foundation for a day or two.  This is important for a few reasons: 1) it lets you know if you’ll have an allergic reaction to the cosmetic and 2) if the natural oils in your skin and/or your skin care products will alter the hue of the foundation when mixed.

Repeat this process for your concealer, except go a shade or two lighter.  Your powder shoud either match your foundation OR be translucent (although if you have a deeper skin tone, you need to be careful not to look chalky with a translucent powder).

Choosing the right type of foundation

There are a few things to consider when picking out a foundation: how much coverage you desire, your skin type, and your level of maintainance.

Tinted Moisturizure If you only desire mild coverage, a tinted moisturizure would be your best bet.  Many brands have a suitable product for this.  Low maintainance gals, and those with dry skin or wrinkles, will like this product too.

Mouse or Cream Good for normal or combination skin.  Best applied with a sponge and lightly as coverage tends to be heavy and/or cakey, but when applied with finesse it can look flawless.

Liquid All skin types; watch for oil based as they turn orange.  If you have oily skin, look for a mattifying liquid (they usually have talc which will absorb excess oil throughout the day).

Powder Combination/Oily types; not good for those with wrinkles or dry skin as the powder will sit in the lines or look chalky.  Apply with a sponge or brush.

Mineral Normal/combination/oily.  Apply with a brush using a swirling motion after tapping off excess.  (This is gonna be a tough product to use if you’re used to applying powders with a sweeping motion… this is not grandma’s loose powder!)

Lastly, there is Airbrush foundation.  This is a new release to the retail market, but well known for movie & tv stars and models– coverage is fantastic, natural look and hides ALL manner of sins.   These tend to work well for all skin types.  The downside to this product is the price.

The best and most long standing rule in wardrobe building is CPW: Cost Per Wear.  Take any item you are looking to purchase (doesn’t matter the cost upfront).  Ask yourself:

• How often am I going to wear it?
• Does it coordinate with at least 3 things I already own?
• Is it versatile?
• Will it help me advance my career or my life?

If you answered yes all four questions, you’ve got a great start.

Let’s take a classic suit.  It’s well made, it’s of a quality material, and it’s $500.  You plan to wear it to work.  You have several tops, shoes and bags that it will go with.  It might help you get that promotion.  And you can wear the blazer as a jacket with jeans on the weekend.  Let’s just say you wear it once a week for the season (about six months) and the blazer alone every 4 weeks.  That’s 28 wears.    That makes the suit $17.85 per wear.  Makes it seem more worth while, no?

Compare the classic suit with a cocktail dress.  Over six months, you might wear it twice.  Say the dress is $250.  If you wear it twice, that’s $125 per wear.  Do you need to buy dress shoes to go with it?  A handbag?  If you can get several more wears out of it because you’ve choosen something versatile (maybe you can belt it, mix different accessories with it?) it will lower the cost per wear.  If it’s a classic style in a flattering cut, you might be able to wear it for years to come, also lowering the cost per wear.

Think that only the frugal and the lowly do this?  Not a chance!  Check out Harper’s Bazzar this month or any of the InStyle magazines and you’ll see celebrities from Angelina Jolie to Katie Holmes to Jennifer Garner wearing and re-wearing what they own.

Behind every great color is an undertone.  Think of red, for example.  There are blue-based reds, neutral reds, and yellow-based reds.   If you still aren’t sure what I’m talking about, think of apple red (blue-red) versus tomato red (yellow-red) versus primary red, the one little kids play with (neutral red).  Colors all have an undertone.

So too does your skin.  You can be warm (yellow tones in your skin), cool (blue tones in your skin), or neutral (both blue and yellow tones in your skin).

How do you know what your undertone is?

One way to tell what your undertone is is by checking out what you wear.  Do you look best in gold jewelry or silver jewelry or both equally?  Salmon pink or bubble gum pink or either?

If you look best in gold or salmon pink, you probably have a warm, yellow-based undertone.  You’ll look great in khakis, creams, and yellow based “spring” or “autumn” colors.

If you look best in silver or bubble gum pink, you probably have a cool, blue-based undertone.  You’ll liven up grays, blues, purples and “winter” or hazy “summer” colors.

If you look best in either, you are probably neutral.  You’ll be comfortable in a range of colors– but see if you like how you look in muted tones versus clear, bright hues.

Why just probably?

It’s difficult to tell in indoor lighting what your undertone is, especially without professional tools.  This can be especially difficult without proper, professional tools.  Check out AICI to speak with a professional near you or call me directly.  A professional color consultant will use full-spectrum lighting, color drapes and other tools to determine a range of colors that complements you most.

So, after she got my hair Hollywood worthy, she recommended that I switch shampoos and conditioners.  Her recomendation?  KMS California.  I’ve been using their moisturizing shampoo and their smoothing conditioner (they’re from different series) for the past week and a half.

An amazing thing has happened!  My hair is completely managable.  It is soft, supple and has great sheen.  Not only that, but I can comb through my hair without using a leave-in condition and a hair serum… and it stays untangled ALL day.  This is new… and I like it.

One of the most important things you can do when you wash your hair is to really lather.  You don’t need a ton of the shampoo, just a dime sized amount on wet hair.  Lather, lather, lather using the pads of your fingers.  Then rinse fully.  Take a dime sized amount of conditioner (this is the more important part– get the salon quality conditioner if you’re trying to be economical and the so-so shampoo) and slather this on by taking your hair into a pony-tail and then running your hand down, concentrating on the ends.  Then take your hands and rake them through from the roots to the tips.  Shave your legs, wash your face or scrub your feet with a loofa for a bit before rinsing the conditioner out.

When you towel dry, don’t rub… squeeze out the excess water by blotting.  Comb through with a wide tooth comb starting at the ends (this prevents breakage).  Then style.  (Check back for styling techniques)

You too can have gorgeous shiny hair.

• Know what you want and by what time you need it done. This can affect price if you change your mind or need it done on the fly.
• Seek a qualified professional. Ask whether or not this person is certified and by what agency.  How long have they been in business?  How long have they been in the field? Do they have references?
• Pay attention to the details. To the estimate (what all does it include?) to how the service provider makes you feel (secure vs. creeped out), and to whether that person has solutions to your problems or even listens to what you are telling them.
• Get 3 estimates. This lets you know if the price is fair and gives you some room to leverage one estimate against another for a better rate with the person you’d rather work with.
• Check references. Call.  Ask questions.  Were they satisfied?  Was the job completed on time?  Did they clean up the mess they made?

Fresh Lipstick: Redressing Fashion and Feminism

Though not a new concept to post-second wave feminists and fashionistas, author Linda M. Scott addresses the history behind personal style and the feminist movement. Academic, insightful, Scott lends a critical eye to the forerunners in the beauty, advertising and women’s magazine industry. This book is stuffed like your Uncle Sal after Thanksgiving dinner with facts and tidbits of information. I would recommend Fresh Lipstick: Redressing Fashion & Feminism to fashion students, those interested in women’s rights, marketing persons, politicos, and anyone who wants a better understanding of how fashion and politics interplay.

Four out of Five Heels

These tones were resonating in my head as my mind flashed through archives of people, models, sporting white footwear.  Sneakers, certainly, and sport shoes in general.  Yacht club members.  Vintage kitten heels from the 40s and 50s.  Wedding slippers.  Flip flops.  But, in terms of stylish foot attire– where does a white shoe stand?

Fashion forward applications:

For her

• White heels
• Gladiator sandals (for those of you with narrow ankles)
• Leather thong sandals (think upgraded flip-flops with a little less flip flopping)
• Boat shoes

All of these options should be used with discretion.  Great outfits are wholistic and complimentary.  Think of a wide leg white trouser with a white pump, a flat sandal with a fun printed skirt, or always chic and channeling Chanel: black and white.  Avoid styles that look little girlie or O.L. (old lady).  I would advise against wearing these shoes with all white dresses unless you are, in fact, getting married;  however, white jeans, a white top, white sandals and brightly colored accessories (I’m thinking a chunky necklace and a bold, fun bag– especially if the bag is your designer piece as this would really showcase it) would be great at a resort.

Always make sure to keep them sparkling clean.  Check your shoe-care aisle at the local drug store or in the shoe department itself.

For him

• Boat shoe
• Driving mocs
• Dress shoe
• Sandal

When applying a white shoe to an ensemble, be sure that they are in pristine condition.  Also, it is imperative that the shoe will compliment what it is you are wearing so you don’t end up looking ridiculous.  For a polished metropolitan look, try a charcoal gray suit with a crisp white dress shirt and white dress shoe.  (Don’t believe me?  Check out the Nordstrom’s ads in this month’s Details magazine!  Hint: it’s an ad for HUGO).  Boat shoes with yacht worthy ensembles.  Leather thong sandals with beach wear.  Driving mocs with chinos or dark denim might have a certain sex appeal.

There are two keys with pulling off the white shoe:  first, selecting an appropriate pair and, second, the editing and execution of the entire outfit.   Both require attention to the details.

Can’t afford that designer bag? Instead of buying a bad knock off made in 3rd world conditions, why not try renting the necessary accessory from Bag, Borror, Or Steal? Other great ideas: check consignment shops in your area, when you travel or on eBay- just be sure to check for flaws and authenticity!

When it comes to shoes, it’s hard to drop $$$$ on them. But, some mid-range designers are taking style cues from big-time designers. Take, for example, Jessica Simpson versus Christian Louboutin. Hers are one ninth the cost of his.

Lizza by Jessica Simpson

That being said, watch what your favorite designers are doing and see if you can find similar silhouettes, details, or design concepts elsewhere. Most design ideas are not exactly new.

Another great, inexpensive way to get high style is with alterations. Making sure a garment fits properly will always make even the most plain ensemble look higher end. Loose threads, holes, and stains are unbecoming and detract from most lux. Adding a bit of personal flair, like feathers (see Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2009 Runway show), can easily freshen up that LBD that doesn’t seem quite so lively anymore.

Take, for example, my trusty gray pin-stripe blazer.  It has a flattering fit and cut. It’s part of a suit set I purchased, but for my profession and needs, I don’t usually wear my suits together except for when I’m giving presentations. This blazer will be the center of a wardrobe capsule for when I travel to Boston this weekend.

For the flight out (and dinner when I get into Boston), I will be sporting slim leg jeans (these are brethren of skinny leg jeans, but slightly more flattering if you, like me, have more of a curvy figure).  I’m going to layer it up with a black cami (just a plain knit jersey one) and a short sleeved grey/white/blue/black print button up.  I will also have a light weight trench, my purse (a personal item– and a BIG bag), and I’ll wear my black patent leather heels (patent leather or faux patent leather is a major trend for the season– you might find a pair hanging around in your closet from years gone by that you can polish up with Pledge and wear with a skirt or trousers to work).

I’m wearing my heels for a few reasons. 1) I’m not checking luggage so I want to maximize room in my carry-on case. 2) These ones are easy to take off/on, which makes it simple to get through airport security. 3) My flight is only an hour long, so I won’t be uncomfortable sitting with them… but I can also slip them off easily; my flight is also direct, so I won’t have to run across a giant airport like O’Hare. 4) I’m going right to dinner when I get off the plane and this makes it easy to jet set.

SO, back to capsule wardrobing…

Day 1 (flight/dinner): jeans, cami 1, short sleeve collared shirt 1, blazer, trench, heels and big bag

Day 2 (shopping): jeans, dressy long sleeve t-shirt, blazer, leather loafers, big bag

(formal dinner): variation on LBD, heels, pashmina wrap, clutch

Day 3 (art gallery): jeans, cami 2, short sleeve collared shirt 2, flats, big bag

(opera & dinner): short sleeve collared shirt 2, cami 2, pencil skirt, heels, clutch

Day 4 (outbound flight): jeans, sleeveless top, blazer, flats, BIG bag

Notes: for being a lover of shoes, I am only bringing ONE other pair (besides slippers for the hotel). I’m also only bringing one other purse: an evening clutch. For the flights in and out, I will store any jewelry I am bringing inside the clutch inside the carry-on.  In all, that’s 10 main articles of clothing, 2 pairs of shoes, 2 purses.  Don’t forget socks, undies, or a toothbrush!  And, viola! a travel capsule was born.

The big idea with the capsule is that the items are interchangeable and can be used together to make a variety of outfits.  The jeans are a dark wash that can be dressed up and dressed down, same with the blazer.  With this set of travel garments, it’s all about accessories.  I also kept to a color pallet that worked for me (in my case, blues and greys… for you, it might be khakis and jem tones).  This is part of what makes all the items integrate well together.